Aliens Theme MAME Cabinet

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epyx:start [2020/05/21 22:02] – [Page 6] frederiepyx:start [2020/05/21 22:16] (current) – frederi
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 This was then transferred to wood 3/4" MDF. I created a quick n'dirty cardboard dimensional representation of my 27" WG D9800 monitor to ensure the size works. I used some scrap laminate and my clamps (what can't these things do...) to draw the curves. This was then transferred to wood 3/4" MDF. I created a quick n'dirty cardboard dimensional representation of my 27" WG D9800 monitor to ensure the size works. I used some scrap laminate and my clamps (what can't these things do...) to draw the curves.
  
-{{:epyx:img_3897.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:aliencablinesdrawnmonitorsep20.jpg?400|}} +{{:epyx:img_3897.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:aliencablinesdrawnmonitorsep20.jpg?453|}} 
  
 I used a large chunk of leftover rectangular laminate...approx 8" wide by 60" long.  You can see this in one of the above pictures. Using clamps I held the back of the curve in place. I would then trace with a pencil along the inner side of the curve. I would start at one end but just a bit ahead of my pencil (maybe 12") I would place a counterweight like wood etc to push the laminate against the clamps from behind, maintaining the curve.\\ I used a large chunk of leftover rectangular laminate...approx 8" wide by 60" long.  You can see this in one of the above pictures. Using clamps I held the back of the curve in place. I would then trace with a pencil along the inner side of the curve. I would start at one end but just a bit ahead of my pencil (maybe 12") I would place a counterweight like wood etc to push the laminate against the clamps from behind, maintaining the curve.\\
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 I touched up my pencil lines on the MDF and just went for the curves. I left about 3" that leaves a bit for the bezel and glass and the back panel will be 1/4" Plywood and the cross bracing I use will sit above and below that portion of the monitor. Here was the final pencil outline I went with: I touched up my pencil lines on the MDF and just went for the curves. I left about 3" that leaves a bit for the bezel and glass and the back panel will be 1/4" Plywood and the cross bracing I use will sit above and below that portion of the monitor. Here was the final pencil outline I went with:
  
-{{:epyx:finalpenciloutline1.jpg?400|}}  {{:epyx:bothcutsbeforesanding2.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:finalpenciloutline1.jpg?453|}}  {{:epyx:bothcutsbeforesanding2.jpg?453|}}
  
 Prepping the first piece on the sanding table for use tomorrow as the template guide for routing both pieces: Prepping the first piece on the sanding table for use tomorrow as the template guide for routing both pieces:
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 And here pictures of a mock up to test the idea. And here pictures of a mock up to test the idea.
  
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 The top and back will be plywood. 1/8" on the top and 1/4" on the back.  I will use one of the existing sides of the cabinet as a template for the curve of the exo-skeleton that the plywood will curve over. The back and top will each have 4 ribs. The outer side ribs of the top portion will connect to the sides of the cab via horizontal flanged inserts (the main horizontal support beams have vertical ones so this should be fine). The top and back will be plywood. 1/8" on the top and 1/4" on the back.  I will use one of the existing sides of the cabinet as a template for the curve of the exo-skeleton that the plywood will curve over. The back and top will each have 4 ribs. The outer side ribs of the top portion will connect to the sides of the cab via horizontal flanged inserts (the main horizontal support beams have vertical ones so this should be fine).
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 I was originally going to go with 12" side holes but they looked really small traced onto the side of the cab. I figured stability wasn't going to be an issue and since I designed my circle jig to do up to 15" circles, I'd go for 15".   Used the jig on the first side and then a flush trim bit for the 2nd side.  The circle jig was so effortless I encourage anyone/everyone who doesn't have one to take the time (couple hours at most) to make one.  Here is a shot of one of the entire sides: I was originally going to go with 12" side holes but they looked really small traced onto the side of the cab. I figured stability wasn't going to be an issue and since I designed my circle jig to do up to 15" circles, I'd go for 15".   Used the jig on the first side and then a flush trim bit for the 2nd side.  The circle jig was so effortless I encourage anyone/everyone who doesn't have one to take the time (couple hours at most) to make one.  Here is a shot of one of the entire sides:
  
-{{:epyx:sideholeshot.jpg?400|}}  {{:epyx:closeupofsidehole.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:sideholeshot.jpg?453|}}  {{:epyx:closeupofsidehole.jpg?453|}}
  
 I cut a slot into the center of the hole as I will be running the T-Molding around the hole like I have seen on a few other cabs. I think it will look pretty good when done with the green neon light and artwork and T Molding as a trim: I cut a slot into the center of the hole as I will be running the T-Molding around the hole like I have seen on a few other cabs. I think it will look pretty good when done with the green neon light and artwork and T Molding as a trim:
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 Back to the drawing board and Saturday I decided to use hardwood (pine) instead of MDF for the ribs, this time opting for 3 ribs and enough space on each end for one rib which will be glued to the inner cab sides and fit on like a hat then screw in to connect the two. Here is how it looked turtled on its back: Back to the drawing board and Saturday I decided to use hardwood (pine) instead of MDF for the ribs, this time opting for 3 ribs and enough space on each end for one rib which will be glued to the inner cab sides and fit on like a hat then screw in to connect the two. Here is how it looked turtled on its back:
  
-{{:epyx:topunderside.jpg?400|}}  {{:epyx:topunderside2.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:topunderside.jpg?453|}}  {{:epyx:topunderside2.jpg?453|}}
  
 Here is a shot showing the front of the top with one of the threaded inserts that the top marquee retainer will screw into, ill show this in more detail below: Here is a shot showing the front of the top with one of the threaded inserts that the top marquee retainer will screw into, ill show this in more detail below:
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 And finally just a quick shot of the T-molding (Galaxian Green). Also in the picture are two of the balltops. I will be getting another pair with leds and hollow shafts for the JLWs which DHL tracking says will be delivered tomorrow.  Also in the bottom picture is the colour I will be using for the bottom front of the cabinet, called Fern Green: And finally just a quick shot of the T-molding (Galaxian Green). Also in the picture are two of the balltops. I will be getting another pair with leds and hollow shafts for the JLWs which DHL tracking says will be delivered tomorrow.  Also in the bottom picture is the colour I will be using for the bottom front of the cabinet, called Fern Green:
  
-{{:epyx:colours1.jpg?400|}}  {{:epyx:colours2.jpg?400|}} +{{:epyx:colours1.jpg?453|}}  {{:epyx:colours2.jpg?453|}} 
  
 I traced out the outline of the top by laying it and rolling it. Then put contact cement on both the top and laminate.  I went over the lines on the laminate to ensure coverage. Then I made sure to wait at least 30 mins to let the cement dry on both pieces: I traced out the outline of the top by laying it and rolling it. Then put contact cement on both the top and laminate.  I went over the lines on the laminate to ensure coverage. Then I made sure to wait at least 30 mins to let the cement dry on both pieces:
  
-{{:epyx:laminateglue.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:topglue.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:laminateglue.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:topglue.jpg?453|}}
  
 Then I prayed to the 4 winds, Crom and any other deity that would listen and applied the laminate to the top. There isn't a 2nd chance on setting and thankfully it lined up perfectly along the front where I wanted about 2mm of overhang: Then I prayed to the 4 winds, Crom and any other deity that would listen and applied the laminate to the top. There isn't a 2nd chance on setting and thankfully it lined up perfectly along the front where I wanted about 2mm of overhang:
  
-{{:epyx:laminateonbeforetrim.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:laminateonbeforetrim2.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:laminateonbeforetrim.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:laminateonbeforetrim2.jpg?453|}}
  
 Then I gave it a good trim with the router and as mentioned my bottom bearing trim bit which rode the bottom 1/8" of the 1/4" plywood.  This was quick and effortless. Here you can see a shot from the top of the front where the marquee retainer is bolted in. The Retainer and Bolts will be green. I will also laminate the top portion just above the retainer so  you won't see the plywood: Then I gave it a good trim with the router and as mentioned my bottom bearing trim bit which rode the bottom 1/8" of the 1/4" plywood.  This was quick and effortless. Here you can see a shot from the top of the front where the marquee retainer is bolted in. The Retainer and Bolts will be green. I will also laminate the top portion just above the retainer so  you won't see the plywood:
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 Notice the gap between the side of the cab and the outter rib in the picture below. That is where the a rib will be attached to the side of the cab and the top piece will sit atop and bolt into. Notice the gap between the side of the cab and the outter rib in the picture below. That is where the a rib will be attached to the side of the cab and the top piece will sit atop and bolt into.
  
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 ===== Page 3 ===== ===== Page 3 =====
 The Laminate is indeed the Formica product from Home Depot $60 CAD. It is 1/16" in thickness and required absolutely no heating to bend it. It took me about 5 hours to do the laminating for just 1 side lol.  I have 3 sheets of laminate for figured id use 1 for each side and the leftovers for the inside and 3rd sheet for back and spare for future CPs. Brushed Lepage contact cement onto both sides and separated with sticks to line them up as close as possible: The Laminate is indeed the Formica product from Home Depot $60 CAD. It is 1/16" in thickness and required absolutely no heating to bend it. It took me about 5 hours to do the laminating for just 1 side lol.  I have 3 sheets of laminate for figured id use 1 for each side and the leftovers for the inside and 3rd sheet for back and spare for future CPs. Brushed Lepage contact cement onto both sides and separated with sticks to line them up as close as possible:
  
-{{:epyx:laminatingside1onsticks2.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:laminatingside1onsticks.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:laminatingside1onsticks2.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:laminatingside1onsticks.jpg?453|}}
  
 Here is the outside of side 1 fully laminated before and after side hole was trimmed: Here is the outside of side 1 fully laminated before and after side hole was trimmed:
  
-{{:epyx:side1laminatednosidehole.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:side1laminatedwithsidehole.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:side1laminatednosidehole.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:side1laminatedwithsidehole.jpg?453|}}
  
 I then laminated the inside which you can see is a patchwork of odds and ends. I put as much towards the center as I could because I will be mounting strips and don't want parts of the strip on laminate and part off: I then laminated the inside which you can see is a patchwork of odds and ends. I put as much towards the center as I could because I will be mounting strips and don't want parts of the strip on laminate and part off:
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 Cold Cathodes are really cheap...a pair like in the picture below run about $10 and they come in various colours.  Here is what the green cold cathode I will be using looks like lit if you are curious: Cold Cathodes are really cheap...a pair like in the picture below run about $10 and they come in various colours.  Here is what the green cold cathode I will be using looks like lit if you are curious:
  
-{{:epyx:ccgreen3.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:ccgreen1.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:ccgreen3.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:ccgreen1.jpg?453|}}
  
 Here are the 3 corners of the cab in closer detail for those who have been curious. Here are the 3 corners of the cab in closer detail for those who have been curious.
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 Here are two angles of the CP Corner. In the first picture a side shot of the CP corner where T mold/cut and laminate meet. In the 2nd picture you can see the beauty of using 5/8" MDF is that once the glue is added to the Laminate you get a perfect end to end flush with T Molding applied: Here are two angles of the CP Corner. In the first picture a side shot of the CP corner where T mold/cut and laminate meet. In the 2nd picture you can see the beauty of using 5/8" MDF is that once the glue is added to the Laminate you get a perfect end to end flush with T Molding applied:
  
-{{:epyx:cpcorner.jpg?400|}}  {{:epyx:cpcornertopviewtmold.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:cpcorner.jpg?453|}}  {{:epyx:cpcornertopviewtmold.jpg?453|}}
  
 Here is the top corner of the cab: Here is the top corner of the cab:
  
-{{:epyx:topcorner.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor2.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:topcorner.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor2.jpg?453|}}
  
 And finally the bottom corner. Again two views: And finally the bottom corner. Again two views:
  
-{{:epyx:bottomcorner.jpg?400|}}  {{:epyx:bottomcorner2.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:bottomcorner.jpg?453|}}  {{:epyx:bottomcorner2.jpg?453|}}
  
 ===== Page 4 ===== ===== Page 4 =====
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 Once I was happy with the monitor mount and test fitted the roof. Also, no fears that is just a piece of cardboard (8.5" x 26.5") to test the marquee dimenions. LOL, you have to love clamps eh?: Once I was happy with the monitor mount and test fitted the roof. Also, no fears that is just a piece of cardboard (8.5" x 26.5") to test the marquee dimenions. LOL, you have to love clamps eh?:
  
-{{:epyx:bottomonmonitormountalmostdoneroof2.jpg?200|}}  {{:epyx:testfitroof.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:testfitroof3.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:testfitroof2.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:bottomonmonitormountalmostdoneroof2.jpg?223|}}  {{:epyx:testfitroof.jpg?223|}} {{:epyx:testfitroof3.jpg?223|}} {{:epyx:testfitroof2.jpg?223|}}
  
 Side Bracings permanently mounted after careful measurements: Side Bracings permanently mounted after careful measurements:
  
-{{:epyx:roofrib2.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:roofrib.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:roofrib2.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:roofrib.jpg?453|}}
  
 And finally I connected the roof to the cab.  Here are various angles of the cab with the roof and monitor mount in place: And finally I connected the roof to the cab.  Here are various angles of the cab with the roof and monitor mount in place:
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 {{:epyx:roofon1.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:roofon2.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:roofon3.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:roofon1.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:roofon2.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:roofon3.jpg?300|}}
  
-{{:epyx:roofon4.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:roofon5.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:roofon4.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:roofon5.jpg?453|}}
  
 The lamination definitely adds to the aesthetics. With a regular paint job you tend to second guess a lot...is it smooth enough? One more sanding? Another coat?  It sure is nice with laminate to just glue it on and trim and then forget about it. My challenge will be in painting the green areas so they at least approximate a laminated finish.   The lamination definitely adds to the aesthetics. With a regular paint job you tend to second guess a lot...is it smooth enough? One more sanding? Another coat?  It sure is nice with laminate to just glue it on and trim and then forget about it. My challenge will be in painting the green areas so they at least approximate a laminated finish.  
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 {{:epyx:testfitmonitor8.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor7.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor-1.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor8.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor7.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor-1.jpg?300|}}
  
-{{:epyx:testfitmonitor6.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor3-1.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:testfitmonitor6.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor3-1.jpg?453|}}
  
-{{:epyx:testfitmonitor2-1.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor5.jpg?400|}} +{{:epyx:testfitmonitor2-1.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor5.jpg?453|}} 
  
 Updated the marquee and placed the order. For the price, im happy with it (even though it has "characters"! and the caption is cheesy...but I like frommage!) and not like I can't take it out and change/update it later. This is an update to the earlier one on page 1 of this thread.  26.5' x 8.5". Here is the proof that FastSigns sent me (White border is just from the proof sheet and will not be on final print): Updated the marquee and placed the order. For the price, im happy with it (even though it has "characters"! and the caption is cheesy...but I like frommage!) and not like I can't take it out and change/update it later. This is an update to the earlier one on page 1 of this thread.  26.5' x 8.5". Here is the proof that FastSigns sent me (White border is just from the proof sheet and will not be on final print):
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 My CP is will be based on the X-Arcade Tankstick...albeit with only 6 buttons, not 8. Here is a picture of the X-Arcade panel sitting on top of my CP so you can see the scale of my CP.  As you can see there is plenty of room for the trackball. Note the side shot for depth ;)  I will also add a spinner. By going down to 6 buttons I can re-jig it to ensure it doesn't look too cluttered.  Either way I will make sure to balance aesthetics with functionality...yes it will have both a spinner and trackball but I think I can pull it off without it looking "too" Frankenpanelish : My CP is will be based on the X-Arcade Tankstick...albeit with only 6 buttons, not 8. Here is a picture of the X-Arcade panel sitting on top of my CP so you can see the scale of my CP.  As you can see there is plenty of room for the trackball. Note the side shot for depth ;)  I will also add a spinner. By going down to 6 buttons I can re-jig it to ensure it doesn't look too cluttered.  Either way I will make sure to balance aesthetics with functionality...yes it will have both a spinner and trackball but I think I can pull it off without it looking "too" Frankenpanelish :
  
-{{:epyx:cpwithxarcadeoverlay.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:cpwithxarcadeoverlay2.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:cpwithxarcadeoverlay.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:cpwithxarcadeoverlay2.jpg?453|}}
  
 ===== Page 8 ===== ===== Page 8 =====
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 Today I mounted my side-art sandwiches ala the Knievel method.  Sandwich consists of the 15" Neon Ring, Plexi, artwork, hardboard backing.  I also completed the first coat of the Marquee retainers and couldn't resist putting them up to see what it will look like.  I can't wait to see these neon rings in action...right now they are still connected to a car lighter but once I have the computer in the cab I will connect them to the PS. Today I mounted my side-art sandwiches ala the Knievel method.  Sandwich consists of the 15" Neon Ring, Plexi, artwork, hardboard backing.  I also completed the first coat of the Marquee retainers and couldn't resist putting them up to see what it will look like.  I can't wait to see these neon rings in action...right now they are still connected to a car lighter but once I have the computer in the cab I will connect them to the PS.
  
-{{:epyx:sideartandmarquee1.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:sideartandmarquee2.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:sideartandmarquee3.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:sideartandmarquee4.jpg?200|}} +{{:epyx:sideartandmarquee1.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:sideartandmarquee2.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:sideartandmarquee3.jpg?300|}} 
 + 
 +{{:epyx:sideartandmarquee4.jpg?nolink|}} 
  
 The original plan was to back light the artwork as well but given the space between the monitor sides opted to go just for the lighting of the ring...completely negating the point of making them backlit in the first place. The original plan was to back light the artwork as well but given the space between the monitor sides opted to go just for the lighting of the ring...completely negating the point of making them backlit in the first place.
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 Once the 3 coatings had dried I traced out the bezel on the back of the laminate and then applied glue to both the mdf and the underside of the laminate. I let it dry for about 20 minutes before joining and trimming the laminate. Once the 3 coatings had dried I traced out the bezel on the back of the laminate and then applied glue to both the mdf and the underside of the laminate. I let it dry for about 20 minutes before joining and trimming the laminate.
  
-{{:epyx:bezel2.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:bezel3.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:bezel2.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:bezel3.jpg?453|}}
  
 Once the laminate was trimmed, I taped it up and added another 2 coatings of black to the inner portion of the bezel. Once the laminate was trimmed, I taped it up and added another 2 coatings of black to the inner portion of the bezel.
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 Once that dried I did a test fitting. I like the results and it's nice to see these smaller laminated pieces coming together as it really showcases the advantages of laminate imo. Once that dried I did a test fitting. I like the results and it's nice to see these smaller laminated pieces coming together as it really showcases the advantages of laminate imo.
  
-{{:epyx:bezel7.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:bezel9.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:bezel7.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:bezel9.jpg?453|}}
  
 And finally a shot to update the comparison vs render: And finally a shot to update the comparison vs render:
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 Next step was to laminate the bottom of the shelf that will face the CP. I glued both sides. You may have seen it earlier in my thread or on other threads but a great way to line up your laminate and wood is to use small dowels.  I used 1/4" offcuts.  Next step was to laminate the bottom of the shelf that will face the CP. I glued both sides. You may have seen it earlier in my thread or on other threads but a great way to line up your laminate and wood is to use small dowels.  I used 1/4" offcuts. 
  
-{{:epyx:speakershelf4.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf5.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf6.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf7.jpg?200|}} +{{:epyx:speakershelf4.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf5.jpg?453|}} 
 + 
 +{{:epyx:speakershelf6.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf7.jpg?453|}} 
  
 I then flush trimmed the speaker holes: I then flush trimmed the speaker holes:
  
-{{:epyx:speakershelf8.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf9.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:speakershelf8.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf9.jpg?453|}}
  
 After this I test fitted the shelf and did the same angled cuts on the CP to allow it to sit flush with the Bezel.  I will finish the CP tomorrow or over the next few days and will angle the corners slightly so they aren't too squared off: After this I test fitted the shelf and did the same angled cuts on the CP to allow it to sit flush with the Bezel.  I will finish the CP tomorrow or over the next few days and will angle the corners slightly so they aren't too squared off:
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 Note there is just enough space between the edge of the cab and the CP for the black T molding of the CP to fit. Note there is just enough space between the edge of the cab and the CP for the black T molding of the CP to fit.
  
-{{:epyx:speakershelf11.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf12.jpg?400|}} +{{:epyx:speakershelf11.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf12.jpg?453|}} 
  
 The bezel will be covered with slightly tinted glass and I will likely have to take a bit extra off of the CP to have it rest on the glass: The bezel will be covered with slightly tinted glass and I will likely have to take a bit extra off of the CP to have it rest on the glass:
  
-{{:epyx:speakershelf14.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf15.jpg?400|}} +{{:epyx:speakershelf14.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf15.jpg?453|}} 
  
 ===== Page 9 ===== ===== Page 9 =====
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 I then added the smokey plexi and voila a perfect fit.  Speakers will be covered as I am still working on them: I then added the smokey plexi and voila a perfect fit.  Speakers will be covered as I am still working on them:
  
-{{:epyx:bottomretainer5.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:bottomretainer10.jpg?400|}} +{{:epyx:bottomretainer5.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:bottomretainer10.jpg?453|}} 
  
 I then realized my CP was cut to not take into account plexi over the bezel...ooops...no big deal. I throw it on the table saw and do another 1/4" angle cut so it rests on the plexi flush. I also cut the T mold slot and rounded the edges. Lastly, I used my X arcade to template sketch the buttons (6 each player), trackball, p1/p2 and Spinner (to left of p1/p2): I then realized my CP was cut to not take into account plexi over the bezel...ooops...no big deal. I throw it on the table saw and do another 1/4" angle cut so it rests on the plexi flush. I also cut the T mold slot and rounded the edges. Lastly, I used my X arcade to template sketch the buttons (6 each player), trackball, p1/p2 and Spinner (to left of p1/p2):
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 Next up is drilling the bolt holes to hold the trackball. Rather than eyeballing I just drill through the holes with the trackball in place: Next up is drilling the bolt holes to hold the trackball. Rather than eyeballing I just drill through the holes with the trackball in place:
  
-{{:epyx:cpbuttonsandflushmounttrackball6.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:cpbuttonsandflushmounttrackball7.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:cpbuttonsandflushmounttrackball6.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:cpbuttonsandflushmounttrackball7.jpg?453|}}
  
 For Trackball bolts (to replace ones it normally uses) I found these hex bolts which have a flat head of about 1/16": For Trackball bolts (to replace ones it normally uses) I found these hex bolts which have a flat head of about 1/16":
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 Next I routed the top portion of the Sanwa mount (Thanks to Franco B for his excellent tutorial on top mounting Sanwa sticks!): Next I routed the top portion of the Sanwa mount (Thanks to Franco B for his excellent tutorial on top mounting Sanwa sticks!):
  
-{{:epyx:cp3.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:cp5.jpg?400|}} +{{:epyx:cp3.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:cp5.jpg?453|}} 
  
 Perfectly flush.  I used 6-32 flat head bolts which barely add any height to the profile...less than 1mm: Perfectly flush.  I used 6-32 flat head bolts which barely add any height to the profile...less than 1mm:
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 I then mounted the XGaming Betson clone with RGB ball from GGG and the modded Sanwas: I then mounted the XGaming Betson clone with RGB ball from GGG and the modded Sanwas:
  
-{{:epyx:cp7.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:cp8.jpg?400|}} +{{:epyx:cp7.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:cp8.jpg?453|}} 
  
 Man to say I can't wait to play is a massive understatement, but I promised myself...patience and attention to detail. Speaking of detail, you will notice a missing Green Novagem button. /SIGH...I had it for colour matching...and lost it...its somewhere in my house I hope!: Man to say I can't wait to play is a massive understatement, but I promised myself...patience and attention to detail. Speaking of detail, you will notice a missing Green Novagem button. /SIGH...I had it for colour matching...and lost it...its somewhere in my house I hope!:
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 Speaker Mounts: Speaker Mounts:
  
-{{:epyx:march19pic10.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:march19pic11.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:march19pic10.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:march19pic11.jpg?453|}}
  
 And these black convex player 1/2 black with white to replace the traditional white with black...I think it looks much better: And these black convex player 1/2 black with white to replace the traditional white with black...I think it looks much better:
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 First up was the RGB drive and mounting it on the XGaming Betson clone I have. I am not sure about the actual Betson's...but the XGaming one has a screw sized hole right near the bottom trackball hole, as if intended for the RGB kit: First up was the RGB drive and mounting it on the XGaming Betson clone I have. I am not sure about the actual Betson's...but the XGaming one has a screw sized hole right near the bottom trackball hole, as if intended for the RGB kit:
  
-{{:epyx:march19pic6.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:march19pic8.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:march19pic6.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:march19pic8.jpg?453|}}
  
 I then connected the Novagems to the buttons. Here is the spare IL translucent green after I drilled it (I ordered replacements from RandyT but will just keep those as spares when they arrive): I then connected the Novagems to the buttons. Here is the spare IL translucent green after I drilled it (I ordered replacements from RandyT but will just keep those as spares when they arrive):
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 Next up was the lamination. Again I use my small cuts to line up the laminate before joining and trimming: Next up was the lamination. Again I use my small cuts to line up the laminate before joining and trimming:
  
-{{:epyx:march21pic2.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:march21pic4.jpg?400|}} +{{:epyx:march21pic2.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:march21pic4.jpg?453|}} 
  
 Both the top and bottom of the panel were angle cut to rest flush on the CP and Coin door: Both the top and bottom of the panel were angle cut to rest flush on the CP and Coin door:
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 The marquee looks washed out...I can assure you in person it is not...the letters are all legible...maybe the movie will show it better after the pics: The marquee looks washed out...I can assure you in person it is not...the letters are all legible...maybe the movie will show it better after the pics:
  
-{{:epyx:march26pic07-1.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:march26pic08.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:march26pic10.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:march26pic11.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:march26pic07-1.jpg?223|}} {{:epyx:march26pic08.jpg?223|}} {{:epyx:march26pic10.jpg?223|}} {{:epyx:march26pic11.jpg?223|}}
  
 {{:epyx:march26pic09.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:march26pic14.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:march26pic15.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:march26pic09.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:march26pic14.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:march26pic15.jpg?300|}}
  
-{{:epyx:march26pic16.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:march26pic04-1.jpg?400|}} +{{:epyx:march26pic16.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:march26pic04-1.jpg?453|}} 
  
 And of course ye obligatory cheesy smiling proud papa photo: And of course ye obligatory cheesy smiling proud papa photo:
epyx/start.1590069765.txt.gz · Last modified: 2020/05/21 22:02 by frederi