Aliens Theme MAME Cabinet

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epyx:start [2020/05/21 19:01] – frederiepyx:start [2020/05/21 22:16] (current) – frederi
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 > >
 > I always liked the cover art on the Alien Quadrilogy box set and felt it would make a pretty nice neon side art.  Ond was kind enough to take the small crappy picture I sent him and re-do it (better than the original imo): > I always liked the cover art on the Alien Quadrilogy box set and felt it would make a pretty nice neon side art.  Ond was kind enough to take the small crappy picture I sent him and re-do it (better than the original imo):
-> {{:epyx:alien-logo_draftresizedsmal.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:march21comparison.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:march26pic07-1.jpg?200|}} [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxh7-CBdbcU&feature=emb_title|Youtube video]]+> {{:epyx:alien-logo_draftresizedsmal.jpg?290|}} {{:epyx:march21comparison.jpg?290|}} {{:epyx:march26pic07-1.jpg?290|}} 
 +> [[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxh7-CBdbcU|{{:epyx:aliens-youtube.jpg?nolink|}}]]
  
 ==== Process ==== ==== Process ====
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 This was then transferred to wood 3/4" MDF. I created a quick n'dirty cardboard dimensional representation of my 27" WG D9800 monitor to ensure the size works. I used some scrap laminate and my clamps (what can't these things do...) to draw the curves. This was then transferred to wood 3/4" MDF. I created a quick n'dirty cardboard dimensional representation of my 27" WG D9800 monitor to ensure the size works. I used some scrap laminate and my clamps (what can't these things do...) to draw the curves.
  
-{{:epyx:img_3897.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:aliencablinesdrawnmonitorsep20.jpg?nolink&90|}} \\+{{:epyx:img_3897.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:aliencablinesdrawnmonitorsep20.jpg?453|}}  
 I used a large chunk of leftover rectangular laminate...approx 8" wide by 60" long.  You can see this in one of the above pictures. Using clamps I held the back of the curve in place. I would then trace with a pencil along the inner side of the curve. I would start at one end but just a bit ahead of my pencil (maybe 12") I would place a counterweight like wood etc to push the laminate against the clamps from behind, maintaining the curve.\\ I used a large chunk of leftover rectangular laminate...approx 8" wide by 60" long.  You can see this in one of the above pictures. Using clamps I held the back of the curve in place. I would then trace with a pencil along the inner side of the curve. I would start at one end but just a bit ahead of my pencil (maybe 12") I would place a counterweight like wood etc to push the laminate against the clamps from behind, maintaining the curve.\\
 The picture above shows only a couple of clamps but this picture was before drawing...during drawing I had about 8 clamps forming the backside of the curve.\\ The picture above shows only a couple of clamps but this picture was before drawing...during drawing I had about 8 clamps forming the backside of the curve.\\
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 I touched up my pencil lines on the MDF and just went for the curves. I left about 3" that leaves a bit for the bezel and glass and the back panel will be 1/4" Plywood and the cross bracing I use will sit above and below that portion of the monitor. Here was the final pencil outline I went with: I touched up my pencil lines on the MDF and just went for the curves. I left about 3" that leaves a bit for the bezel and glass and the back panel will be 1/4" Plywood and the cross bracing I use will sit above and below that portion of the monitor. Here was the final pencil outline I went with:
  
-{{:epyx:finalpenciloutline1.jpg?200|}}  {{:epyx:bothcutsbeforesanding2.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:finalpenciloutline1.jpg?453|}}  {{:epyx:bothcutsbeforesanding2.jpg?453|}}
  
 Prepping the first piece on the sanding table for use tomorrow as the template guide for routing both pieces: Prepping the first piece on the sanding table for use tomorrow as the template guide for routing both pieces:
  
-{{:epyx:preppingforsanding3.jpg?200|}} +{{:epyx:preppingforsanding3.jpg?nolink|}} 
  
 And a final pic before tomorrows routing of the sanded template side with monitor mock up back on: And a final pic before tomorrows routing of the sanded template side with monitor mock up back on:
  
-{{:epyx:finishedcutandsandedwithmonitorcuto.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:finishedcutandsandedwithmonitorcuto.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 The top and back will be two pieces of curved plywood. Each piece will sit atop a brace frame that will connect it to the sides. The idea is for a flush outter shell that rides just lower than the Galaxian green T-molding along the edge, maybe 1/8". The top and back will be two pieces of curved plywood. Each piece will sit atop a brace frame that will connect it to the sides. The idea is for a flush outter shell that rides just lower than the Galaxian green T-molding along the edge, maybe 1/8".
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 This picture illustrates the idea: This picture illustrates the idea:
  
-{{:epyx:aliencabinteriorplan.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:aliencabinteriorplan.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 And here pictures of a mock up to test the idea. And here pictures of a mock up to test the idea.
  
-{{:epyx:flangedinserts3.jpg?200|}}  {{:epyx:flangedinserts1.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:flangedinserts3.jpg?453|}}  {{:epyx:flangedinserts1.jpg?453|}}
  
 The top and back will be plywood. 1/8" on the top and 1/4" on the back.  I will use one of the existing sides of the cabinet as a template for the curve of the exo-skeleton that the plywood will curve over. The back and top will each have 4 ribs. The outer side ribs of the top portion will connect to the sides of the cab via horizontal flanged inserts (the main horizontal support beams have vertical ones so this should be fine). The top and back will be plywood. 1/8" on the top and 1/4" on the back.  I will use one of the existing sides of the cabinet as a template for the curve of the exo-skeleton that the plywood will curve over. The back and top will each have 4 ribs. The outer side ribs of the top portion will connect to the sides of the cab via horizontal flanged inserts (the main horizontal support beams have vertical ones so this should be fine).
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 Making a circle jig and the start of the top portion of the cab. The top portion will hold the marquee, lighting and curved plywood (to where it will meet the back panel). The circle jig is nothing fancy compared to some of the ones on here but does the sizes I will require (8", 10", 12", 14.5" and 15")  Over the coming days I will determine if I go with 12", 14.5" or 15": Making a circle jig and the start of the top portion of the cab. The top portion will hold the marquee, lighting and curved plywood (to where it will meet the back panel). The circle jig is nothing fancy compared to some of the ones on here but does the sizes I will require (8", 10", 12", 14.5" and 15")  Over the coming days I will determine if I go with 12", 14.5" or 15":
  
-{{:epyx:circlejig.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:circlejig.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 Here are the 6 MDF pieces (4 below but i had 2 more, that will serve as the ribs that hold the plywood on the top and the top marquee retainer/lighting: Here are the 6 MDF pieces (4 below but i had 2 more, that will serve as the ribs that hold the plywood on the top and the top marquee retainer/lighting:
  
-{{:epyx:skeletonfortop.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:skeletonfortop.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 Here is the plan: Here is the plan:
  
-{{:epyx:topandmarqueediagram.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:topandmarqueediagram.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 The diagram shows the bottom of the ribs being flat and extended to the bottom of the curve in a straight line. In reality I will make only a 5" portion flat...the rest will curve along approximately 3" from the top.  I have tested the plywood and it curves perfectly (and as Ond mentioned...easily) along the top.  Over the next few days I will glue this on once I have everything lined up.  Overtop of the plywood will sit the laminate.  The diagram shows the bottom of the ribs being flat and extended to the bottom of the curve in a straight line. In reality I will make only a 5" portion flat...the rest will curve along approximately 3" from the top.  I have tested the plywood and it curves perfectly (and as Ond mentioned...easily) along the top.  Over the next few days I will glue this on once I have everything lined up.  Overtop of the plywood will sit the laminate. 
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 Here are some pictures to better show what I will do. Here are some pictures to better show what I will do.
  
-{{:epyx:alienrooftop.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:alienrooftop.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 Each side of the cab will have one of the ribs (made of pine or harder wood) connected to it with threaded inserts. The main stress will be downward and the vertical inserts will take the load off  the few horizontal ones I use (like these).  You can also see on this picture the idea behind the curved skelton. It will continue in a 2nd piece that will curve along the back to the bottom so that what I end up with is a nice curve outlining the cab...no squares here. Each side of the cab will have one of the ribs (made of pine or harder wood) connected to it with threaded inserts. The main stress will be downward and the vertical inserts will take the load off  the few horizontal ones I use (like these).  You can also see on this picture the idea behind the curved skelton. It will continue in a 2nd piece that will curve along the back to the bottom so that what I end up with is a nice curve outlining the cab...no squares here.
  
-{{:epyx:cabwithtop.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:cabwithtop.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 Here is a picture of them lined up on a workbench so you can see the approximate spacing. Note they are doubled up on the sides. One piece on the cab side as mentioned and the outmost of the rib set will thread screw to the one on the cab side.  The retainer spacing will house a small piece of pine that I will glue on and I have cut it so it is square with the ground.   Here is a picture of them lined up on a workbench so you can see the approximate spacing. Note they are doubled up on the sides. One piece on the cab side as mentioned and the outmost of the rib set will thread screw to the one on the cab side.  The retainer spacing will house a small piece of pine that I will glue on and I have cut it so it is square with the ground.  
  
-{{:epyx:aliensinarow.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:aliensinarow.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 Here is a front shot to give you an idea of how the retainer will sit. Of course it will be green and will be slightly higher (no pine in there yet): Here is a front shot to give you an idea of how the retainer will sit. Of course it will be green and will be slightly higher (no pine in there yet):
  
-{{:epyx:frontofretainer.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:frontofretainer.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 Next, I'm going to finish the retainer portion and mount the pine retainer beam. There will also be a piece of pine that will run along the flat inner portion you see. Next, I'm going to finish the retainer portion and mount the pine retainer beam. There will also be a piece of pine that will run along the flat inner portion you see.
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 I was originally going to go with 12" side holes but they looked really small traced onto the side of the cab. I figured stability wasn't going to be an issue and since I designed my circle jig to do up to 15" circles, I'd go for 15".   Used the jig on the first side and then a flush trim bit for the 2nd side.  The circle jig was so effortless I encourage anyone/everyone who doesn't have one to take the time (couple hours at most) to make one.  Here is a shot of one of the entire sides: I was originally going to go with 12" side holes but they looked really small traced onto the side of the cab. I figured stability wasn't going to be an issue and since I designed my circle jig to do up to 15" circles, I'd go for 15".   Used the jig on the first side and then a flush trim bit for the 2nd side.  The circle jig was so effortless I encourage anyone/everyone who doesn't have one to take the time (couple hours at most) to make one.  Here is a shot of one of the entire sides:
  
-{{:epyx:sideholeshot.jpg?200|}}  {{:epyx:closeupofsidehole.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:sideholeshot.jpg?453|}}  {{:epyx:closeupofsidehole.jpg?453|}}
  
 I cut a slot into the center of the hole as I will be running the T-Molding around the hole like I have seen on a few other cabs. I think it will look pretty good when done with the green neon light and artwork and T Molding as a trim: I cut a slot into the center of the hole as I will be running the T-Molding around the hole like I have seen on a few other cabs. I think it will look pretty good when done with the green neon light and artwork and T Molding as a trim:
  
-{{:epyx:slotcutinsidehole.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:slotcutinsidehole.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 Here is a shot of the where the top and front meet.  I can't wait to see the T-Molding on here: Here is a shot of the where the top and front meet.  I can't wait to see the T-Molding on here:
  
-{{:epyx:slotneartopcloseup.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:slotneartopcloseup.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 Next I worked on the ribs of the top of the cab and the curved plywood that would rest on top.  My first go at this was pretty disastrous...I had tried gluing the MDF ribs to the plywood but just couldn't get it to set properly and figured I would need some screws as well to assist the clamps due to the bending momentum of the plywood.  Well as soon as I thought that my 2nd thought was...DOH...screws will just split the MDF...sure enough the first few split it. Next I worked on the ribs of the top of the cab and the curved plywood that would rest on top.  My first go at this was pretty disastrous...I had tried gluing the MDF ribs to the plywood but just couldn't get it to set properly and figured I would need some screws as well to assist the clamps due to the bending momentum of the plywood.  Well as soon as I thought that my 2nd thought was...DOH...screws will just split the MDF...sure enough the first few split it.
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 Back to the drawing board and Saturday I decided to use hardwood (pine) instead of MDF for the ribs, this time opting for 3 ribs and enough space on each end for one rib which will be glued to the inner cab sides and fit on like a hat then screw in to connect the two. Here is how it looked turtled on its back: Back to the drawing board and Saturday I decided to use hardwood (pine) instead of MDF for the ribs, this time opting for 3 ribs and enough space on each end for one rib which will be glued to the inner cab sides and fit on like a hat then screw in to connect the two. Here is how it looked turtled on its back:
  
-{{:epyx:topunderside.jpg?200|}}  {{:epyx:topunderside2.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:topunderside.jpg?453|}}  {{:epyx:topunderside2.jpg?453|}}
  
 Here is a shot showing the front of the top with one of the threaded inserts that the top marquee retainer will screw into, ill show this in more detail below: Here is a shot showing the front of the top with one of the threaded inserts that the top marquee retainer will screw into, ill show this in more detail below:
  
-{{:epyx:toptop3withmountinginsert.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:toptop3withmountinginsert.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 And here is a back view of the top before lamination: And here is a back view of the top before lamination:
  
-{{:epyx:topback.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:topback.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 And a closeup of the screws. You can see in this shot they are all countersunk which ensured no contact with the laminate: And a closeup of the screws. You can see in this shot they are all countersunk which ensured no contact with the laminate:
  
-{{:epyx:screwscloseup.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:screwscloseup.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 And finally just a quick shot of the T-molding (Galaxian Green). Also in the picture are two of the balltops. I will be getting another pair with leds and hollow shafts for the JLWs which DHL tracking says will be delivered tomorrow.  Also in the bottom picture is the colour I will be using for the bottom front of the cabinet, called Fern Green: And finally just a quick shot of the T-molding (Galaxian Green). Also in the picture are two of the balltops. I will be getting another pair with leds and hollow shafts for the JLWs which DHL tracking says will be delivered tomorrow.  Also in the bottom picture is the colour I will be using for the bottom front of the cabinet, called Fern Green:
  
-{{:epyx:colours1.jpg?200|}}  {{:epyx:colours2.jpg?200|}} +{{:epyx:colours1.jpg?453|}}  {{:epyx:colours2.jpg?453|}} 
  
 I traced out the outline of the top by laying it and rolling it. Then put contact cement on both the top and laminate.  I went over the lines on the laminate to ensure coverage. Then I made sure to wait at least 30 mins to let the cement dry on both pieces: I traced out the outline of the top by laying it and rolling it. Then put contact cement on both the top and laminate.  I went over the lines on the laminate to ensure coverage. Then I made sure to wait at least 30 mins to let the cement dry on both pieces:
  
-{{:epyx:laminateglue.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:topglue.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:laminateglue.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:topglue.jpg?453|}}
  
 Then I prayed to the 4 winds, Crom and any other deity that would listen and applied the laminate to the top. There isn't a 2nd chance on setting and thankfully it lined up perfectly along the front where I wanted about 2mm of overhang: Then I prayed to the 4 winds, Crom and any other deity that would listen and applied the laminate to the top. There isn't a 2nd chance on setting and thankfully it lined up perfectly along the front where I wanted about 2mm of overhang:
  
-{{:epyx:laminateonbeforetrim.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:laminateonbeforetrim2.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:laminateonbeforetrim.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:laminateonbeforetrim2.jpg?453|}}
  
 Then I gave it a good trim with the router and as mentioned my bottom bearing trim bit which rode the bottom 1/8" of the 1/4" plywood.  This was quick and effortless. Here you can see a shot from the top of the front where the marquee retainer is bolted in. The Retainer and Bolts will be green. I will also laminate the top portion just above the retainer so  you won't see the plywood: Then I gave it a good trim with the router and as mentioned my bottom bearing trim bit which rode the bottom 1/8" of the 1/4" plywood.  This was quick and effortless. Here you can see a shot from the top of the front where the marquee retainer is bolted in. The Retainer and Bolts will be green. I will also laminate the top portion just above the retainer so  you won't see the plywood:
  
-{{:epyx:laminatetrimmedtopviewwithretainer.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:laminatetrimmedtopviewwithretainer.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 Then I laid it atop one of the side panels to ensure everything including the curves lined up.  This turned out perfect and rides just a few mm shy of where the T Molding will run on the side panels along the top and back: Then I laid it atop one of the side panels to ensure everything including the curves lined up.  This turned out perfect and rides just a few mm shy of where the T Molding will run on the side panels along the top and back:
  
-{{:epyx:toponside.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:toponside.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 Notice the gap between the side of the cab and the outter rib in the picture below. That is where the a rib will be attached to the side of the cab and the top piece will sit atop and bolt into. Notice the gap between the side of the cab and the outter rib in the picture below. That is where the a rib will be attached to the side of the cab and the top piece will sit atop and bolt into.
  
-{{:epyx:toponsidetopview3.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:toponsidetopview.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:toponsidetopview5.jpg?200|}}   {{:epyx:toponsidetopview4.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:toponsidetopview3.jpg?223|}} {{:epyx:toponsidetopview.jpg?223|}} {{:epyx:toponsidetopview5.jpg?223|}}   {{:epyx:toponsidetopview4.jpg?223|}}
  
 ===== Page 3 ===== ===== Page 3 =====
 The Laminate is indeed the Formica product from Home Depot $60 CAD. It is 1/16" in thickness and required absolutely no heating to bend it. It took me about 5 hours to do the laminating for just 1 side lol.  I have 3 sheets of laminate for figured id use 1 for each side and the leftovers for the inside and 3rd sheet for back and spare for future CPs. Brushed Lepage contact cement onto both sides and separated with sticks to line them up as close as possible: The Laminate is indeed the Formica product from Home Depot $60 CAD. It is 1/16" in thickness and required absolutely no heating to bend it. It took me about 5 hours to do the laminating for just 1 side lol.  I have 3 sheets of laminate for figured id use 1 for each side and the leftovers for the inside and 3rd sheet for back and spare for future CPs. Brushed Lepage contact cement onto both sides and separated with sticks to line them up as close as possible:
  
-{{:epyx:laminatingside1onsticks2.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:laminatingside1onsticks.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:laminatingside1onsticks2.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:laminatingside1onsticks.jpg?453|}}
  
 Here is the outside of side 1 fully laminated before and after side hole was trimmed: Here is the outside of side 1 fully laminated before and after side hole was trimmed:
  
-{{:epyx:side1laminatednosidehole.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:side1laminatedwithsidehole.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:side1laminatednosidehole.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:side1laminatedwithsidehole.jpg?453|}}
  
 I then laminated the inside which you can see is a patchwork of odds and ends. I put as much towards the center as I could because I will be mounting strips and don't want parts of the strip on laminate and part off: I then laminated the inside which you can see is a patchwork of odds and ends. I put as much towards the center as I could because I will be mounting strips and don't want parts of the strip on laminate and part off:
  
-{{:epyx:laminatinginside1.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:laminatinginside2.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:laminatinginside3.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:laminatinginside1.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:laminatinginside2.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:laminatinginside3.jpg?300|}}
  
 And here is the outside of side 1 with Galaxian green T Molding along outter slot and inside side hole: And here is the outside of side 1 with Galaxian green T Molding along outter slot and inside side hole:
  
-{{:epyx:withtmolding2.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:withtmolding3.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:withtmolding4.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:withtmolding2.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:withtmolding3.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:withtmolding4.jpg?300|}}
  
 Could add a row of LEDs under the CP area to lit the front coin door panel with  a bit of green light:. Would either need a diffuser of some sort or a green cold cathode. I think a small u shaped recess at the bottom of the curve would work best and that way I can slot a G. C cathode in there and drill a hole for the cabling out of sight.  Could add a row of LEDs under the CP area to lit the front coin door panel with  a bit of green light:. Would either need a diffuser of some sort or a green cold cathode. I think a small u shaped recess at the bottom of the curve would work best and that way I can slot a G. C cathode in there and drill a hole for the cabling out of sight. 
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 Cold Cathodes are really cheap...a pair like in the picture below run about $10 and they come in various colours.  Here is what the green cold cathode I will be using looks like lit if you are curious: Cold Cathodes are really cheap...a pair like in the picture below run about $10 and they come in various colours.  Here is what the green cold cathode I will be using looks like lit if you are curious:
  
-{{:epyx:ccgreen3.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:ccgreen1.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:ccgreen3.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:ccgreen1.jpg?453|}}
  
 Here are the 3 corners of the cab in closer detail for those who have been curious. Here are the 3 corners of the cab in closer detail for those who have been curious.
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 Here are two angles of the CP Corner. In the first picture a side shot of the CP corner where T mold/cut and laminate meet. In the 2nd picture you can see the beauty of using 5/8" MDF is that once the glue is added to the Laminate you get a perfect end to end flush with T Molding applied: Here are two angles of the CP Corner. In the first picture a side shot of the CP corner where T mold/cut and laminate meet. In the 2nd picture you can see the beauty of using 5/8" MDF is that once the glue is added to the Laminate you get a perfect end to end flush with T Molding applied:
  
-{{:epyx:cpcorner.jpg?200|}}  {{:epyx:cpcornertopviewtmold.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:cpcorner.jpg?453|}}  {{:epyx:cpcornertopviewtmold.jpg?453|}}
  
 Here is the top corner of the cab: Here is the top corner of the cab:
  
-{{:epyx:topcorner.jpg?200|}} +{{:epyx:topcorner.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor2.jpg?453|}} 
-{{:epyx:testfitmonitor2.jpg?nolink|}}+
 And finally the bottom corner. Again two views: And finally the bottom corner. Again two views:
  
-{{:epyx:bottomcorner.jpg?200|}}  {{:epyx:bottomcorner2.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:bottomcorner.jpg?453|}}  {{:epyx:bottomcorner2.jpg?453|}}
  
 ===== Page 4 ===== ===== Page 4 =====
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 And a few lit pictures...I just dangled the light from behind...no diffusion yet which I will do with a back layer of frosted plexi (art will be sandwiched...reg plexi...art...frosted...cathodes...foil and backing).  The pictures don't capture how great this looks even with it not being diffused. For one the art is clear and not shadowy looking and the black surrounding and in between the graphic doesn't have a green smear:  And a few lit pictures...I just dangled the light from behind...no diffusion yet which I will do with a back layer of frosted plexi (art will be sandwiched...reg plexi...art...frosted...cathodes...foil and backing).  The pictures don't capture how great this looks even with it not being diffused. For one the art is clear and not shadowy looking and the black surrounding and in between the graphic doesn't have a green smear: 
  
-{{:epyx:sideartlit4.jpg?200|}}  {{:epyx:sideartlit2.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:sideartlit3.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:sideartlit.jpg?200|}} +{{:epyx:sideartlit4.jpg?nolink|}} 
 + 
 +{{:epyx:sideartlit2.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:sideartlit3.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:sideartlit.jpg?300|}} 
  
 The plan is to diffuse the light with frosted plexi in behind the side art. As above the neon rings are no longer being manufactured so I am searching the Internets for any and all alternatives...worst case I leave it backlit which still looks friggin unreal in person and only that much better once it's diffused im sure. The plan is to diffuse the light with frosted plexi in behind the side art. As above the neon rings are no longer being manufactured so I am searching the Internets for any and all alternatives...worst case I leave it backlit which still looks friggin unreal in person and only that much better once it's diffused im sure.
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 Once I was happy with the monitor mount and test fitted the roof. Also, no fears that is just a piece of cardboard (8.5" x 26.5") to test the marquee dimenions. LOL, you have to love clamps eh?: Once I was happy with the monitor mount and test fitted the roof. Also, no fears that is just a piece of cardboard (8.5" x 26.5") to test the marquee dimenions. LOL, you have to love clamps eh?:
  
-{{:epyx:bottomonmonitormountalmostdoneroof2.jpg?200|}}  {{:epyx:testfitroof.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:testfitroof3.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:testfitroof2.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:bottomonmonitormountalmostdoneroof2.jpg?223|}}  {{:epyx:testfitroof.jpg?223|}} {{:epyx:testfitroof3.jpg?223|}} {{:epyx:testfitroof2.jpg?223|}}
  
 Side Bracings permanently mounted after careful measurements: Side Bracings permanently mounted after careful measurements:
  
-{{:epyx:roofrib2.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:roofrib.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:roofrib2.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:roofrib.jpg?453|}}
  
 And finally I connected the roof to the cab.  Here are various angles of the cab with the roof and monitor mount in place: And finally I connected the roof to the cab.  Here are various angles of the cab with the roof and monitor mount in place:
  
-{{:epyx:roofon1.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:roofon2.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:roofon3.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:roofon4.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:roofon5.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:roofon1.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:roofon2.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:roofon3.jpg?300|}} 
 + 
 +{{:epyx:roofon4.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:roofon5.jpg?453|}}
  
 The lamination definitely adds to the aesthetics. With a regular paint job you tend to second guess a lot...is it smooth enough? One more sanding? Another coat?  It sure is nice with laminate to just glue it on and trim and then forget about it. My challenge will be in painting the green areas so they at least approximate a laminated finish.   The lamination definitely adds to the aesthetics. With a regular paint job you tend to second guess a lot...is it smooth enough? One more sanding? Another coat?  It sure is nice with laminate to just glue it on and trim and then forget about it. My challenge will be in painting the green areas so they at least approximate a laminated finish.  
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 The width of the bezel area is 26.5", leaving 2-5/8" from edge of viewable screen to side of cab on each side. The width of the bezel area is 26.5", leaving 2-5/8" from edge of viewable screen to side of cab on each side.
  
-{{:epyx:testfitmonitor8.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor7.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor-1.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor2-1.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor6.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor3-1.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor5.jpg?200|}} +{{:epyx:testfitmonitor8.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor7.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor-1.jpg?300|}} 
 + 
 +{{:epyx:testfitmonitor6.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor3-1.jpg?453|}} 
 + 
 +{{:epyx:testfitmonitor2-1.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:testfitmonitor5.jpg?453|}} 
  
 Updated the marquee and placed the order. For the price, im happy with it (even though it has "characters"! and the caption is cheesy...but I like frommage!) and not like I can't take it out and change/update it later. This is an update to the earlier one on page 1 of this thread.  26.5' x 8.5". Here is the proof that FastSigns sent me (White border is just from the proof sheet and will not be on final print): Updated the marquee and placed the order. For the price, im happy with it (even though it has "characters"! and the caption is cheesy...but I like frommage!) and not like I can't take it out and change/update it later. This is an update to the earlier one on page 1 of this thread.  26.5' x 8.5". Here is the proof that FastSigns sent me (White border is just from the proof sheet and will not be on final print):
Line 353: Line 363:
 The paint was a pleasure to work with and rolled on very nicely and quick to dry. I Put on two coats and will be sanding and putting on a 3rd tomorrow: The paint was a pleasure to work with and rolled on very nicely and quick to dry. I Put on two coats and will be sanding and putting on a 3rd tomorrow:
  
-{{:epyx:coindoor3.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:coindoor1.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:coindoor2-1.jpg?200|}}+{{:epyx:coindoor3.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:coindoor1.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:coindoor2-1.jpg?300|}}
  
 I also organized all the cabinet parts and forgot to mention these arrived about 8 weeks ago: I also organized all the cabinet parts and forgot to mention these arrived about 8 weeks ago:
Line 367: Line 377:
 My CP is will be based on the X-Arcade Tankstick...albeit with only 6 buttons, not 8. Here is a picture of the X-Arcade panel sitting on top of my CP so you can see the scale of my CP.  As you can see there is plenty of room for the trackball. Note the side shot for depth ;)  I will also add a spinner. By going down to 6 buttons I can re-jig it to ensure it doesn't look too cluttered.  Either way I will make sure to balance aesthetics with functionality...yes it will have both a spinner and trackball but I think I can pull it off without it looking "too" Frankenpanelish : My CP is will be based on the X-Arcade Tankstick...albeit with only 6 buttons, not 8. Here is a picture of the X-Arcade panel sitting on top of my CP so you can see the scale of my CP.  As you can see there is plenty of room for the trackball. Note the side shot for depth ;)  I will also add a spinner. By going down to 6 buttons I can re-jig it to ensure it doesn't look too cluttered.  Either way I will make sure to balance aesthetics with functionality...yes it will have both a spinner and trackball but I think I can pull it off without it looking "too" Frankenpanelish :
  
-{{:epyx:cpwithxarcadeoverlay.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:cpwithxarcadeoverlay2.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:cpwithxarcadeoverlay.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:cpwithxarcadeoverlay2.jpg?453|}}
  
 ===== Page 8 ===== ===== Page 8 =====
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 Today I mounted my side-art sandwiches ala the Knievel method.  Sandwich consists of the 15" Neon Ring, Plexi, artwork, hardboard backing.  I also completed the first coat of the Marquee retainers and couldn't resist putting them up to see what it will look like.  I can't wait to see these neon rings in action...right now they are still connected to a car lighter but once I have the computer in the cab I will connect them to the PS. Today I mounted my side-art sandwiches ala the Knievel method.  Sandwich consists of the 15" Neon Ring, Plexi, artwork, hardboard backing.  I also completed the first coat of the Marquee retainers and couldn't resist putting them up to see what it will look like.  I can't wait to see these neon rings in action...right now they are still connected to a car lighter but once I have the computer in the cab I will connect them to the PS.
  
-{{:epyx:sideartandmarquee1.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:sideartandmarquee2.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:sideartandmarquee3.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:sideartandmarquee4.jpg?200|}} +{{:epyx:sideartandmarquee1.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:sideartandmarquee2.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:sideartandmarquee3.jpg?300|}} 
 + 
 +{{:epyx:sideartandmarquee4.jpg?nolink|}} 
  
 The original plan was to back light the artwork as well but given the space between the monitor sides opted to go just for the lighting of the ring...completely negating the point of making them backlit in the first place. The original plan was to back light the artwork as well but given the space between the monitor sides opted to go just for the lighting of the ring...completely negating the point of making them backlit in the first place.
Line 430: Line 442:
 Once the 3 coatings had dried I traced out the bezel on the back of the laminate and then applied glue to both the mdf and the underside of the laminate. I let it dry for about 20 minutes before joining and trimming the laminate. Once the 3 coatings had dried I traced out the bezel on the back of the laminate and then applied glue to both the mdf and the underside of the laminate. I let it dry for about 20 minutes before joining and trimming the laminate.
  
-{{:epyx:bezel2.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:bezel3.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:bezel2.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:bezel3.jpg?453|}}
  
 Once the laminate was trimmed, I taped it up and added another 2 coatings of black to the inner portion of the bezel. Once the laminate was trimmed, I taped it up and added another 2 coatings of black to the inner portion of the bezel.
Line 438: Line 450:
 Once that dried I did a test fitting. I like the results and it's nice to see these smaller laminated pieces coming together as it really showcases the advantages of laminate imo. Once that dried I did a test fitting. I like the results and it's nice to see these smaller laminated pieces coming together as it really showcases the advantages of laminate imo.
  
-{{:epyx:bezel7.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:bezel9.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:bezel7.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:bezel9.jpg?453|}}
  
 And finally a shot to update the comparison vs render: And finally a shot to update the comparison vs render:
Line 460: Line 472:
 Next step was to laminate the bottom of the shelf that will face the CP. I glued both sides. You may have seen it earlier in my thread or on other threads but a great way to line up your laminate and wood is to use small dowels.  I used 1/4" offcuts.  Next step was to laminate the bottom of the shelf that will face the CP. I glued both sides. You may have seen it earlier in my thread or on other threads but a great way to line up your laminate and wood is to use small dowels.  I used 1/4" offcuts. 
  
-{{:epyx:speakershelf4.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf5.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf6.jpg?200|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf7.jpg?200|}} +{{:epyx:speakershelf4.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf5.jpg?453|}} 
 + 
 +{{:epyx:speakershelf6.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf7.jpg?453|}} 
  
 I then flush trimmed the speaker holes: I then flush trimmed the speaker holes:
  
-{{:epyx:speakershelf8.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf9.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:speakershelf8.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf9.jpg?453|}}
  
 After this I test fitted the shelf and did the same angled cuts on the CP to allow it to sit flush with the Bezel.  I will finish the CP tomorrow or over the next few days and will angle the corners slightly so they aren't too squared off: After this I test fitted the shelf and did the same angled cuts on the CP to allow it to sit flush with the Bezel.  I will finish the CP tomorrow or over the next few days and will angle the corners slightly so they aren't too squared off:
Line 472: Line 486:
 Note there is just enough space between the edge of the cab and the CP for the black T molding of the CP to fit. Note there is just enough space between the edge of the cab and the CP for the black T molding of the CP to fit.
  
-{{:epyx:speakershelf11.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf12.jpg?400|}} +{{:epyx:speakershelf11.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf12.jpg?453|}} 
  
 The bezel will be covered with slightly tinted glass and I will likely have to take a bit extra off of the CP to have it rest on the glass: The bezel will be covered with slightly tinted glass and I will likely have to take a bit extra off of the CP to have it rest on the glass:
  
-{{:epyx:speakershelf14.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf15.jpg?400|}} +{{:epyx:speakershelf14.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:speakershelf15.jpg?453|}} 
  
 ===== Page 9 ===== ===== Page 9 =====
Line 503: Line 517:
 I then added the smokey plexi and voila a perfect fit.  Speakers will be covered as I am still working on them: I then added the smokey plexi and voila a perfect fit.  Speakers will be covered as I am still working on them:
  
-{{:epyx:bottomretainer5.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:bottomretainer10.jpg?400|}} +{{:epyx:bottomretainer5.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:bottomretainer10.jpg?453|}} 
  
 I then realized my CP was cut to not take into account plexi over the bezel...ooops...no big deal. I throw it on the table saw and do another 1/4" angle cut so it rests on the plexi flush. I also cut the T mold slot and rounded the edges. Lastly, I used my X arcade to template sketch the buttons (6 each player), trackball, p1/p2 and Spinner (to left of p1/p2): I then realized my CP was cut to not take into account plexi over the bezel...ooops...no big deal. I throw it on the table saw and do another 1/4" angle cut so it rests on the plexi flush. I also cut the T mold slot and rounded the edges. Lastly, I used my X arcade to template sketch the buttons (6 each player), trackball, p1/p2 and Spinner (to left of p1/p2):
Line 537: Line 551:
 Next up is drilling the bolt holes to hold the trackball. Rather than eyeballing I just drill through the holes with the trackball in place: Next up is drilling the bolt holes to hold the trackball. Rather than eyeballing I just drill through the holes with the trackball in place:
  
-{{:epyx:cpbuttonsandflushmounttrackball6.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:cpbuttonsandflushmounttrackball7.jpg?400|}}+{{:epyx:cpbuttonsandflushmounttrackball6.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:cpbuttonsandflushmounttrackball7.jpg?453|}}
  
 For Trackball bolts (to replace ones it normally uses) I found these hex bolts which have a flat head of about 1/16": For Trackball bolts (to replace ones it normally uses) I found these hex bolts which have a flat head of about 1/16":
Line 559: Line 573:
 Next I routed the top portion of the Sanwa mount (Thanks to Franco B for his excellent tutorial on top mounting Sanwa sticks!): Next I routed the top portion of the Sanwa mount (Thanks to Franco B for his excellent tutorial on top mounting Sanwa sticks!):
  
-{{:epyx:cp3.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:cp5.jpg?400|}} +{{:epyx:cp3.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:cp5.jpg?453|}} 
  
 Perfectly flush.  I used 6-32 flat head bolts which barely add any height to the profile...less than 1mm: Perfectly flush.  I used 6-32 flat head bolts which barely add any height to the profile...less than 1mm:
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 I then mounted the XGaming Betson clone with RGB ball from GGG and the modded Sanwas: I then mounted the XGaming Betson clone with RGB ball from GGG and the modded Sanwas:
  
-{{:epyx:cp7.jpg?400|}} {{:epyx:cp8.jpg?400|}} +{{:epyx:cp7.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:cp8.jpg?453|}} 
  
 Man to say I can't wait to play is a massive understatement, but I promised myself...patience and attention to detail. Speaking of detail, you will notice a missing Green Novagem button. /SIGH...I had it for colour matching...and lost it...its somewhere in my house I hope!: Man to say I can't wait to play is a massive understatement, but I promised myself...patience and attention to detail. Speaking of detail, you will notice a missing Green Novagem button. /SIGH...I had it for colour matching...and lost it...its somewhere in my house I hope!:
Line 582: Line 596:
  
 ===== Page 10 ===== ===== Page 10 =====
 +I will try to diffuse the light differently from those original pics and limit it to just the crevasse. In the pics the light was non-diffused and was illuminating the entire circle from behind. Hopefully limiting it to just a slit opening behind the crevasse and diffusing it will help. If not, I will just go with the Neon rings.
 +
 +You know I was actually thinking about going black under the CP as it would allow me to laminate...here is why this might work better. The curved MDF I have been testing using slits cut every 1/2" to within 1/8" depth, bends fine but reveals the ribs from behind in the light...ie the creases when bending.  This would likely still be visible painted.
 +
 +Going with black laminate will cover those creases and also allow me to embed two black USB circular ports just under the lip.  So agreed, black just might work better on more than one front.
 +
 +I purchased a 26.5"x22 1/4" piece of smoked glass to replace the plexi I was using...main reason is the larger plexi was a static magnet. The glass fit like a glove and looks smokin (excuse the bad 3am pun!).
 +
 +First thing I noticed in my mailbox on the way home were the added parts I had ordered.
 +
 +Speaker Mounts:
 +
 +{{:epyx:march19pic10.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:march19pic11.jpg?453|}}
 +
 +And these black convex player 1/2 black with white to replace the traditional white with black...I think it looks much better:
 +
 +{{:epyx:march19pic12.jpg?nolink|}}
 +
 +Objective since it was too late to work in the garage cutting, was to complete at least the LED Wiz wiring. 
 +
 +First up was the RGB drive and mounting it on the XGaming Betson clone I have. I am not sure about the actual Betson's...but the XGaming one has a screw sized hole right near the bottom trackball hole, as if intended for the RGB kit:
 +
 +{{:epyx:march19pic6.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:march19pic8.jpg?453|}}
 +
 +I then connected the Novagems to the buttons. Here is the spare IL translucent green after I drilled it (I ordered replacements from RandyT but will just keep those as spares when they arrive):
 +
 +{{:epyx:march19pic2.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:march19pic3.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:march19pic5.jpg?300|}}
 +
 +Here is the wiring complete for the LED Wiz...the mini rats nest on the top left will be organized further...getting tired! You can see to the right of the nest a euro terminal block that is feeding the 5 volts for the Lighting. The 5v runs to a hacked molex plug which will hang beneath the CP.
 +
 +{{:epyx:march19pic13.jpg?nolink|}} 
 +
 +Here is the CP with new Player 1 /2 buttons lit with the lights in the room still on.  The Trackball is RGB but I just set it to Green for this pic:
 +
 +{{:epyx:march19pic15.jpg?nolink|}} 
 +
 +And finally with the lights off:
 +
 +{{:epyx:march19pic16.jpg?nolink|}} 
 +
 +I am really pleased with the lighting...damn those Novagems are bright when viewed top down!
 +
 +This panel will include USB and some other ports/buttons. 
 +
 +I worked on the panel between the coin door and CP. This panel has 2 Neutrik USB ports on the left and 5 buttons on the right...I know...why 5 buttons?  Well they aren't all going to be buttons.  Only 3 will be functional as buttons...the far left 2 will be mouse buttons and the far right will be the power (Green Novagem...lit when powered).  The other 2 will have button covers but contain Volume adjustment and the last one a headphone jack. Once I have finished these mods I will post the process as well.
 +
 +So first up the panel.  I used a 15/16 spade bit which is a perfect fit for the Neutrik USB ports if anyone wants them mounted perfectly:
 +
 +{{:epyx:march21pic3.jpg?nolink|}} 
 +
 +First I lined up the buttons and adapters where I wanted them...this was about 2/3 up so I can reach my hand down and around the lip for power and mouse buttons.
 +
 +{{:epyx:march21pic1.jpg?nolink|}} 
 +
 +Next up was the lamination. Again I use my small cuts to line up the laminate before joining and trimming:
 +
 +{{:epyx:march21pic2.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:march21pic4.jpg?453|}} 
 +
 +Both the top and bottom of the panel were angle cut to rest flush on the CP and Coin door:
 +
 +{{:epyx:march21pic5.jpg?nolink|}} 
 +
 +Here is the panel attached with the neon rings lit up. I will still be cutting slits to light the crevasse as my test shows its dark enough at the center of the art to get a good effect and not be overpowered:
 +
 +{{:epyx:march21pic6.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:march21pic7.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:march21pic8.jpg?300|}} 
 +
 +All the wiring is done as I wanted to be able to bring the PC down and tweak on the arcade monitor.  
 +
 +Next up:
 +  * Back of Cab
 +  * Final Tweaks
 +  * Complete Button Mods
 +  * Cut slits in Side art backing to light just crevasse
 +  * PLAYTIME!!! Finally get to join some high score comps again!
 +
 +Curved back is going to look fantastic.  It is being done in 3 stages...a first 1" piece will connect top of curve to middle curve. This is required as there is a steep angle of about 1" before the software curve that extends to the midway point.  I will do the midway softer curve using the same rib method I used for the top of the cab. The bottom panel will be a removable access panel that will be straight.
 +
 +Here is a paint sketch that summarizes how I will do it:
 +
 +{{:epyx:backofcab.jpg?nolink|}} 
 +
 +<note tip>how did you attach your bezel</note>
 +
 +> If you look at the previous page it shows some closeups of the angled brackets I used. Here in a bit more verbal detail is what I did:
 +>
 +> I have the bezel resting along the via monitor but pressure rests on the brackets. It touches the sides of the glass but rests on weather stripping I have put on the back of the bezel. Weather stripping is adhesive on one side with a peel away layer...the other side is black foam.  I used the 1.5" wide stuff. It is approximately 1/4" deep and can be purchased at Home Depot.
 +> 
 +> The top of the bezel passes up and behind the speaker panel by about 1.5" where it does touch the glass it rests on 2 small angled iron brackets (1 on each side). The bottom sits on a 90 degree angle...the angle has about 3/4" of space on each edge...the bezel is 1/2" which leave 1/4".  The glass I use is 22 1/4" (top to bottom) and 26.5" (wide) by 1/4" thick it rests perfectly on the angle (as you can see in the picture, it rests flush).  The glass extends up to just below the speaker shelf (just touching it).
 +>
 +> The angled wood is itself mounted at an angle to hold the bezel and glass by two 90 degree steel braces. These braces have holes in them which I use to insert pins. Gravity holds the glass and bezel in place but the pins ensure they stay put "Just in case".
 +>
 +> Let me know if you have any more questions...oh and the reason I have built it this way is that I can take everything apart quickly to get at the monitor etc.
 +>
 +> I'll take a few more pictures if you like of the bezel.  The other thing I have done on a previous cab is used angle brackets along the side of the monitor to rest the bezel on.
 +
 +===== Page 11 =====
 +Finally got the lighting and wiring all done up in the cab. Here are some pics and a movie of the lighting.  Im going to post a few so if you aren't in to pics scroll quick ;)
 +
 +The marquee looks washed out...I can assure you in person it is not...the letters are all legible...maybe the movie will show it better after the pics:
 +
 +{{:epyx:march26pic07-1.jpg?223|}} {{:epyx:march26pic08.jpg?223|}} {{:epyx:march26pic10.jpg?223|}} {{:epyx:march26pic11.jpg?223|}}
 +
 +{{:epyx:march26pic09.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:march26pic14.jpg?300|}} {{:epyx:march26pic15.jpg?300|}}
 +
 +{{:epyx:march26pic16.jpg?453|}} {{:epyx:march26pic04-1.jpg?453|}} 
 +
 +And of course ye obligatory cheesy smiling proud papa photo:
 +
 +{{:epyx:march26pic05.jpg?nolink|}}
 +
 +After this picture my wife reminded me that the basement won't build itself...was that a hint!?
 +
 +Going to still see about lighting just the crevasse on the side art and of course the spinner...it already has UV paint on it but not sure where I would put a UV Light so will look at some earlier lighting suggestions for the spinner. First things first, finish the back off so I can close it up tight and roll it into its final carpeted spot in the basement.
 +
 +
 +Short Movie Clip showing lighting...again marquee and lights in general are not washed out, they appear slightly overexposed on this clip and in the pics...I have one LED tube in there turned around facing the foil:
 +
 +[[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxh7-CBdbcU|{{:epyx:aliens-youtube.jpg?nolink|}}]]
 +
 +===== Page 12 =====
 +Q&A:
 +
 +For the speaker sandwich basically you cut out a piece of plexi glass that covers the inside of the circle.  I used a 16" x 16" square cut of plexi glass.  You place this plexi behind the neon speaker ring.  The next layer is your artwork. The artwork is also 16" x 16". The 3rd layer is a piece of hardboard that I also cut 16" x 16". You then screw all the layers through the screw holes on the neon speaker ring into the inside of the cab.
 +
 +The only thing I will be modifying is that I will be adding a small slit into the back of the hardboard to backlight the crevasse. I got lazy this past long weekend and only played..no building.
 +
 +For volume I borrowed liberally, this time from Martijn's excellent SF cab.  I used a 2.1 Logitech Z313 set.  I just extended the volume and headphone as he did (although I haven't mounted them permanently inside the buttons yet.  I didn't hack anything just extended what was already there as the volume dial fits in the button np as does the headphone jack. [[http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,84649.0l.html|Martijn's SF Cab]
 +
 +For those asking, here are a few pictures showing the PC Power Supply hack in a bit more detail.  As mentioned I have a 2nd PC power supply hacked to not require it to be plugged in to a motherboard (also great for using as a test PS btw).  The way to do this is as follows:
 +
 +1) Find the green wire on your Power Supply Mobo connector cable.  It should be pin 4. Once you locate it you just need to short it to one of the black cables on either side. I used 18 guage solid non-stranded and just made a small U:
 +
 +{{:epyx:pshack1.jpg?nolink|}}
 +
 +2) Then tape it up to prevent it from coming out. This is more for formality than function. If you are using 18 guage it won't easily slip out as the fit is tight...but for peace of mind... 
 +
 +{{:epyx:pshack1b.jpg?nolink|}}
 +
 +3) For drawing power to various devices like the LEDWiz or the Neon speaker rings I use Euro style terminal strips (type you screw to tighten not spade connectors).  You can get these from Radio Shack/The Source (Canada).  Or anywhere in Europe ;)  
 +
 +As mentioned the Neon speaker rings uses 12v. It carries those 12v through a red cable and ground through a black one. I connected those to the terminal strip and then ran the power supply 12v (yellow) and ground (black) into the other side of the terminal strip. You can cut these terminal blocks in between which I haven't done yet but will so its just the two hanging there.
 +
 +If you were running to a 5v devices like some LEDs etc then you would just run the 5v on your LED to the strip and on the opposing side the PS's red 5v cable. Here is how mine looks 12v to 12v:
 +
 +{{:epyx:pshack2.jpg?nolink|}}
 +
 +<note important>Any damage you may cause to your equipment is not my responsibility. If you have a blonde moment and fry something, you have been warned! </note>
 +
 +I have had a few people PM me for measurements. I finally got around to taking the measurements as the original cab was built with only overall height and width as a known variable and the rest was just improvised from Ond's render.
 +
 +Some misc facts about the measurements before I list all them.
 +
 +  * The curved roof and back can't really be measured, just follow the curve at the top and around back by 1/4". That is what I did.
 +  * The Marquee actual size is 26.5" x 8.5". The Measurements shown are from top of top retainer to bottom of bottom retainer.
 +  * Bezel is 26.5" and 25" top to bottom but runs flush behind speaker shelf at the top and CP at the bottom.
 +  * Bezel glass is 26.5" x 22.5" and rests just below CP out of sight and rests flush with speaker shelf at top.
 +  * Cab is 71 7/8" from ground including the wheels...the wheels take up 1 1/8" of that height so actual cab height without wheels is 70 6/8"
 +  * Top of CP with wheels on cab is at ~40" from the ground. This works out fine for me and my friends...your results may vary ;)
 +
 +Here are the measurements:
 +
 +Front:
 +
 +{{:epyx:frontmeasurements2.jpg?nolink|}}
 +
 +CP/Bezel:
 +
 +{{:epyx:cpmeasurements.jpg?nolink|}}
 +
 +Top Side:
 +
 +{{:epyx:sidemeasurements1.jpg?nolink|}}
 +
 +Bottom Side:
 +
 +{{:epyx:sidemeasurements2.jpg?nolink|}}
  
 +And that's it for now!
epyx/start.1590058865.txt.gz · Last modified: 2020/05/21 19:01 by frederi